Paul Carmichael, whose Kabawa was named number one on The Times' 100-best list, gave Momofuku its biggest restaurant win in years. (Photo by Andrew Bezek.)
O
kay, we know you’ve been chatting about The New York Times’ 100-best list. So have we. Can I take you into the weekend with some thoughts on the One-Percenter? Yes, I’m talking about Kabawa, the Caribbean restaurant that critic Ligaya Mishan writes is "full of gutsy pleasures and flauntings of sorrel powder." It’s a smart number one pick. A conversation starter! Not all of the tapped-in people I know agree, but on a personal level, I have its chef, Paul Carmichael, to thank for showing my wife that smoked white fish is one of the all-time foods. For that, I owe him my life. Momofuku also has a lot to thank Carmichael for, too: Without sounding overly dramatic, he’s restored the relevance of a hospitality group that seemed like it was no longer in the business of running (or opening) interesting restaurants.
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