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Open Kitchen

From a sweltering West Village dining room to a farmers market in Carmel, the chef and owner of New York’s Bartolo and Ernesto’s reflects on a broken AC, cooking in California, and the real reason he can’t say no to guest-chef gigs (hint: It’s not just about the money).

Ryan Bartlow
Open Kitchen

Latest News


Jul 24, 2026

Chris Crowley

Healthy Solutions

Mayor Zohran Mamdani announced a set of 50 reforms that aim to reduce bureaucracy and support small businesses, half of which will impact mom-and-pop restaurants. Will he actually be able to cut the bullshit?

Jul 22, 2026

Emma Orlow

A Century of Theatrics, Kitsch, and Caviar

Ghosts in the basement, a real Chagall on the wall, and a 15-foot bear-shaped fish tank—at 100, the Russian Tea Room is now run by a 30-year-old trying to keep the Midtown institution afloat and relevant.

Jul 20, 2026

Annie Armstrong

The Vitagliano Twins Are Taking Notes On You

The sisters behind Raf’s and The Musket Room built a reputation on impossibly high standards and an 86’d list 275 names deep. Next, they’re taking over food and beverage at one of downtown’s most storied hotels, The Bowery.

Jul 17, 2026

Nina Bodow

The Hidden Hand

How a former J.P. Morgan banker went from peeling carrots at Esca to running the operations behind Cote, Coqodaq, and Bar Chimera.

Jul 13, 2026

Annie Armstrong

How Did That Joan Jonas Get There?

Snarling at Ned Baldwin’s Houseman is a dog drawing by Joan Jonas. The chef and restaurateur takes us back to his Yale art school days, where he first encountered the seminal video performance artist.

Jul 10, 2026

Chris Crowley

Soccer Blues

The World Cup has animated New York into one joyous public square–except, maybe, at Italian restaurants like Via Della Pace.

Editor’s Picks


How Eater Lost Its Bite

How Eater Lost Its Bite

The pioneering food site once set the terms for how Americans talked about restaurants. Now, it’s fighting for survival in a media landscape it helped shape—and can no longer control.

Dana Brown

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14 min read

Last Call for the Dive Bar?

Last Call for the Dive Bar?

The author, who has spent perhaps too much time in dive bars from New Orleans to Chicago to New York, asks what happens when they begin to vanish.

Rich Cohen

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5 min read

In Depth


Critically Ill

Critically Ill

A negative New York Times review of Eddie Huang’s Baohaus 2.0 sent the chef on a tirade.

Chris Crowley

•

3 min read

The Twilight of Mr. Chow?

The Twilight of Mr. Chow?

The Larry Gagosian-favorite restaurant has closed in Miami Beach after 17 years. It’s the third location of the legendary, art-centric restaurant to close in the U.S.

Annie Armstrong

•

2 min read

Features


The Hidden Hand

How a former J.P. Morgan banker went from peeling carrots at Esca to running the operations behind Cote, Coqodaq, and Bar Chimera.

Nina Bodow

•

3 min read

All the Right Moves

When the former Vanity Fair editor and AIR MAIL cofounder took over the Waverly Inn, his ambition was simple: reinvent a Village classic just enough to create a new one. As the Waverly celebrates 20 years under his watch, he looks back at how it began.

Graydon Carter

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3 min read

Origin Story: Simon Kim

The restaurateur behind Cote and Coqodaq built his success by pairing exacting craft with electric atmosphere. His next move is his biggest yet: a three-restaurant destination inside Midtown’s landmark 550 Madison Avenue.

Duff McDonald

•

3 min read

All the Right Moves

When the former Vanity Fair editor and AIR MAIL cofounder took over the Waverly Inn, his ambition was simple: reinvent a Village classic just enough to create a new one. As the Waverly celebrates 20 years under his watch, he looks back at how it began.

Graydon Carter

•

3 min read

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