
In the belly of an industrial Brooklyn warehouse, New York’s cheese fans gather once a month for an underground cheese sale. As I balance my disposable plate with samples, my standouts become clear: a crumble of Shakerag blue wrapped in fig leaf from Tennessee’s Sequatchie Cove, and a sliver of the Schlossberger Alt, a raw cow’s milk cheese from Switzerland described as “an intensely nutty, funky, rich aged Alpine-style that is big and bold and beautiful and DIGNIFIED, just like you.”
It’s here that Caroline Hesse, the woman behind C. Hesse Cheese—which supplies cheese to many of the city’s most-talked-about restaurants—including Bridges and Le Veau d’Or—opens her distribution warehouse once a month to the public.
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