Contramar’s Gabriela Cámara making a tuna tostada in San Miguel de Allende.
T
his weekend, on a lark, I flew down to San Miguel de Allende, a small town in the heart of Mexico, for a dinner prepared by chef Gabriela Cámara of Mexico City’s famed Contramar. Have you ever endured connecting flights for just one dinner? Few things make such grueling travel worth it, but to me, chef Cámara’s cooking is one of them. The almost 30-year-old restaurant has been on my mind lately since it opened a location called Cantina Contramar in Las Vegas at the Fontainebleau earlier this year, an indicator that the big fish restaurant has graduated to the global pond, and that the restaurant is making efforts to define its own legacy, an effort I saw clearly at the dinner in San Miguel.
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