In the attention economy, the most valuable thing in wine may not be the bottle, but the audience. (Photo by Imagno/Getty Images.)

M ichael Amorosia runs The Amorosia Cellar, a lifestyle brand that happens to be about wine. He is not selling bottles. He is selling what he calls “an environment where taste can develop without the gatekeeping that usually surrounds it.” When I asked about his theory of wine communication, he put it simply: “Traditional retail solves for availability. This solves for desire.”

This is the cleanest formulation of a shift currently remaking how wine reaches younger drinkers. The old problem was finding the wine. The new problem is making people care.

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