At Stars, the finish on the bespoke Tom Bloxam speaker matches the mahogany legs of the bar stools. (Photo by Andrew Bui.)

Forget jewelry boxes; call them music boxes? I’ve noticed a trend in small, unassuming wine bars around the city that prominently feature sound systems which could accompany The Jesus and Mary Chain in concert. 

Last week, I tried out the new natural wine bar in Fort Greene on Clermont Avenue called Bar Heretic. It’s a warm little 700-square-foot space, filled with murmuring Brooklynites noshing on whipped ricotta with focaccia. Above the bar hang several 36-inch by 20-inch Heretic Kensington speakers, huge and imposing, looking like they could fill a whole football stadium with sound. From them, classical music gently trickles out.

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